- Brake fluid will eat paint. Be very careful to avoid spillage onto any finished surfaces. If any is spilled, stop working. Immediately wash and rinse all contaminated surfaces.
- Brake fluid is toxic. Use nitrile gloves and/or wash hands immediately after contact. Dispose of used fluid and any contaminated items in accordance with local, state, and federal law.
- Inspect your clothing. Zippers, buttons, rivets, etc. will scratch your car. Consider using a fender cover while working.
- Cleanliness is key. The slightest particle of grit or schmutz will settle to the bottom of the cylinder and cause premature failure by grinding back and forth with each operation of the clutch.
Tools:
socket driver
14 mm socket
6 in extension
8 mm combination wrench
torque wrench (recommended and easily rented)
1/2"female-to-3/8"male adapter (if needed for torque wrench)
something to tie the loose end of the hydraulic line to the strut brace
a partner to operate the clutch pedal when bleeding the new cylinder
Consumables:
1 pint DOT-3 brake fluid
Shop towels or rag big enough to absorb 1-2 oz brake fluid.
Parts:
1 ea. Subaru 30620AA111 (or equiv.) slave cylinder
NAPA Altrom atm p3038 (Nabco just like OEM)
Autozone Duralast 900061
2 ea. Subaru 114130151 (or equiv.) gaskets (crush washers) for 10 mm banjo fitting
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Torque specifications:
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Preliminary steps:
1. If not already adjusted for minimum usable height, perform the Clutch Engagement Adjustment.
Although not required, be prepared to perform a second adjustment after installing the new cylinder. The smaller diameter of the new cylinder will slightly raise the touch point.
2. Inspect the new cylinder for any obvious defects. Do not remove the rubber stopper from the new cylinder. It will be transferred to the old cylinder just prior to removal.
3. To minimize the possibility of particulate contamination, before disassembly, thoroughly clean the hose, banjo fitting, AND the 14 mm socket.
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Procedure:
To prevent fluid loss, be prepared to lift the loose end of the hose above the fluid level in the reservoir immediately after unscrewing the banjo bolt.
Now we're ready to disconnect the banjo fitting.
Place another towel within reach. Use the ratchet only to loosen the bolt. Use your fingers to unscrew the bolt most of the way.
With towel in free hand, prepare to cover the end of the banjo bolt and fitting.
Remember, there is a gasket (washer) both above and below the banjo fitting. Be aware of the lower one. It should stay with the cylinder.
Leaving the bolt inserted in the banjo fitting, immediately lift both up and away from the cylinder.
Observe how slowly the fluid oozes on its own. This knowledge will come in handy when reassembling the fitting.
Separate and set aside the bolt and old gasket.
Tie off the hose.
Inspect the area for, and remove any spilled fluid.
***Ignore the removal of the reservoir cap at this point. It is vented and therefore will allow the fluid level to equalize.***
Remove and set aside the remaining gasket.
Using a rag to prevent spillage, set the cap into the old cylinder.
Note for working without a torque wrench: The mount bolts will feel especially tight and may first come loose with a "snap." Do not use this as a gauge for torquing the bolt upon assembly. Try to feel for where it's good and snug but doesn't stretch the threads. It can help to get a feel for that sweet spot by repeatedly tightening and loosening the bolt each time increasing the torque a smidge. The fastener will settle in over time but if you're not sure, keep the ratchet in the car and check it the next time it's cold.
Remove the 2 mount bolts and remove the old cylinder.
Mount the new cylinder and if upgrading the clutch hydraulic line, follow ck-GT86's procedure here.
Quickly, using 2 new gaskets, mount the banjo fitting.
Tighten the banjo bolt only until snug. Then continue turning the bolt 1/2 turn to set the gaskets. [service manual specifies 13 lb-ft torque]
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Bleeding the system
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Note: The clutch pedal will not return on its own if the assist spring remains installed. This is normal.
Caution: Monitor the fluid level in the reservoir carefully. If the master cylinder is allowed to suck air, bench bleeding will be required to restore function.
1. Have your partner prepare to press and hold the clutch pedal.
2. Establish a clear method to communicate with your partner. This may seem odd but with the repetitive nature of this task, an "oops" moment is a very real risk. It's not a big deal, just a little frustrating when "Arrrgh!" You almost had it.
3. I bleed the clutch fluid into a rag because there's less risk of spillage and it's easier to feel presence of air that way.
Procedure is as follows:
1. Press clutch pedal.
2. Slowly open bleed valve. (listen/feel for air bubbles)
3. Close bleed valve.
4. Lift or release clutch pedal.
5. Check fluid in reservoir and add if required.
Repeat this cycle until all air is eliminated from the system. It will be easy to feel this. Yay! Enjoy the new sporty feel of your clutch.
Thanks to Ultramaroon